| Gold-plate is created using an electro-chemical
processes, as is vermeil. Gold-filled, or gold-overlay, is
created by heat-and-pressure-bonding a thin layer of gold to a brass
core.
Gold-plate places a thin molecule
of gold, or most often, something that really isn't karat-gold
and which leaves a gold color, on copper or brass
or some base metal.
A second chemical is used as a finishing to give the
color a "brightness". The
gold color and brightness wears off pretty
quickly when interacting with the wearer's skin salts or the pollutants
in
the
air. On an
average person in an average environment, the brightness finish fades
in about 3-6 months, and the color fades in 6 months to a year. If
the environment is very humid or very polluted, this can happy much
more quickly. Some people have either ammonias or sulphides in their
sweat. These chemicals dissolve one or both of the chemicals in the
plating and/or finishing.
Gold-filled places a layer of real gold over
copper or brass or other metal. It wears off very slowly.
For example, on a gold-filled ring, the gold-fill might wear
off the inside of the ring shank after 3 years of constant wear,
but
remain on the outside of the ring for many, many years after
that.
Vermeil: When real karat Gold-Plating is over sterling
silver, the finish is called vermeil or vermeille. Because the gold
does not adhere fully to the silver, the silver continues to tarnish
under the gold. Any
vermeil piece wil darken with age. Since vermeil is electro-plated,
not fused like gold-filled, the plating will eventually wear off.
This usually happens in a year or two. It takes longer to wear off
than costume gold-plate because the plating on vermeil is considerably
thicker than that on costume jewelry.
When a jewelry designer or a company is
manufacturing gold-filled jewelry, it is their choice as to how
thick a layer of gold to place over the base metal material.
Thus, you can have two gold-filled pieces, and you may have
the gold layer wear off more quickly on one piece than the other.
It is difficult, unfortunately, to be able to tell whether the
purchase price of any piece reflects its true value.
Sometimes, you will see a notation next to the
Gold-Filled label indicating the relationship between the weight of
karat-gold and the weight of the brass core material. For
example, if you see the notion "14/20 Gold-Filled," this means that the piece is 1/20th 14 karat gold. The
1/20 notation refers to the ratio of the 14
karat gold layer to the brass layer by weight, which
is 5%. What is important here to the jewelry designer is
less the content of gold, but rather more the color of the
gold-filled piece. 14/20 gf will be more golden, darker, mellow. 12/20 gf will be
brighter, brassier, yellower.
In any case, gold-filled is a much more durable product than
gold-plate or vermeil. Gold-filled jewelry is economical, and enjoys the rich look
of gold at a fraction of the cost.
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